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My Ancestors...
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1770s Poloniaise gown, of burgundy shot silk taffeta, decorated with fringed self material. There are no fastenings, the edges being simply pinned together at the front, and it is worn over a blue silk underskirt. Slits in the sides of the gown and slightly offset slits in the underskirt allow access to the pockets worn underneath. The gown (and wearer!) is given the correct shape by the corset and bum roll (see below). The hat is of straw, decorated with ostrich feathers and ribbons.
1830s high waisted coat in grey wool, gathered in the back and worn with a self belt. The underdress is a high waisted gown of rust coloured silk and cashmere blend fabric, printed in a fashionable Indian paisley pattern. Although riding sidesaddle appears precarious, it is a comfortable and secure riding seat.
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Sidesaddle at Old Wardour Castle - 1830
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Wrest Park in the Age of Reason - 1770
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White silk gown with golden thread and trimmings. This gown was copied from an example in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. The waist is extremely high, the skirt falling from immediately below the breasts. The skirt of the dress is flat at the front but very gathered to the rear. It fastens at the rear with two buttons, one on the top band and one on the waist band. The gathers at the rear are held away from the body with a 'bum roll' - much smaller than prior examples, being approximately an inch in diameter. Its ties run through loops in the dress to hold it in place. Little if any underwear was worn in this period. Ladies of high fashion even went to the extreme of dampening their muslin gowns in order that they cling to the body, giving great sport the the amused cartoonists. Nipples were even rouged so they showed more clearly through the fabric.
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Napoleonic Association Winter Ball - 1805
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Forming up with the 21eme Regiment d'Infanterie de Ligne.
The modern French 21eme Regiment presented us with our Eagle and regimental flag, at the occasion of the investiture of their new Colonel. This was a great honour and I look back on that day with immense pride.
Pictured here in "Grand-Tenue" (parade dress) wearing Shako (leather and felt peaked hat) with brass Plaque (regimental plate) and Jugulaires (chinscales), and green wool pompon (green indicating 1st company). Habit-veste (parade jacket) has a white buttoned-back plastron (front). Buttons display the regimental number. Demi-guetres noir (black gaiters) are worn over white Pantalons (trousers). Under this uniform is worn solely the Chemise (shirt), socks being the only other popularly worn underwear in this period. The white buff leather strap supports a black leather Giberne (cartridge box) which displays a brass crowned "N". The Fusil (flintlock musket) is a Charleville Modele 1777, Modife An IX, with Baionette (Bayonet)
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21eme de Ligne, 1812. Chaumont, France
I'm the one that's closest to the correct height for a line infantryman...
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1770s Underwear
The corset at this period is worn over a shift or chemise, and is exceptionally supportive to the back and comfortable. The bum roll worn round the waist is stuffed with horsehair, this is both light and resillient. The 'bustle' effect can be seen in the picture to the right, once the first petticoat is on. The pocket (as in the nursery rhyme "Lucy Locket lost her Pocket*) ties round the waist and is surprisingly capacious. Slits in the petticoats and overskirts allow access to this pocket. Short stockings are supported by garters fastened at the knee.
* This was a reference to Lucy Locket losing her position to Kitty Fisher, another well known courtesan. Many nursery rhymes originating in this period are of a decidedly unsavoury nature. "See Saw Marjorie Daw" is a particularly unpleasant example, "Marjorie Daw" being Georgian rhyming slang for ladies of negotiable affection...
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