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Petra The Rose City
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For most people the city of Petra is better known as being a back drop for the Indiana Jones movie (or at least those who have seen my holiday snaps of Petra). However, Petra is so much more than this and offers it's visitors an enchanted, magical glimpse into a romantic past of caravans, spices and trade winds.
Petra left me astounded and bewildered, it truly is a timeless place and one which should be experienced first hand if ancient cultures and races fascinate you. While wandering around this ancient site its so easy to catch ghosts around the corner and imagine turbaned traders in brightly coloured gowns selling spices, wool, turquoise, gold and silk.
The site itself is spread over a large distance and was occupied by the Nabataeans. Some of the attractions require a 2-4 hour strenuous walk. (The Place of High Sacrifice and the Monastery) Unfortunately, I only had a four hour trip which was just about enough to see the main show stoppers but still definatley worth it!
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The Al-Khasneh
(The Treasury)
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Getting there
My Original Holiday destination was Taba in Egypt. Taba is situated in Siani off the Gulf of Aqabah overlooking the Red Sea. (Photo opposite of Radisson SAS hotel, see Radissons web page) A day trip to Petra can be booked through a local operator but to be honest you need to be prepared for a long, hot tiring day. An early start a 6 am then a crossing to Israel and then another into Jordan. Crossing each border is a bizarre experience and you need lots of patience, expect to wait at least 2 hours at each crossing and a 2 hour bus ride once in Jordan to get to Petra. Visa's and border taxes will need to be purchased and you get more passport stamps than you can shake a stick at. Please ensure if you are going through this route you have a full understanding of what is required at each border and how much tax will cost. (See your holiday rep) You will also need local currency for Israel and Jordan. Alternatively, why not stay in Jordan and fly direct from London, this will give you more time to explore what Petra has to offer.
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On arrival at Petra the distance from the entrance to the lower city is about 3km, about a 45 min slow walk. This walk will take you through The Siq (picture opposite) which is a natural passage way between the rocks and one of the reasons the city was so well protected and hidden. While travelling down the Siq you will see channels that have been carved out of the rock which once transported water to the city. On your way down to the lower city you will pass rock tombs on both your left and right hand sides which give a tempting offer of what is in store. One of these rock tombs is called the Tomb of the Obelisks and is styled in Egyptian and has 4 pyramid type structures adorning the top (picture 2nd right).
One of the unfortunate aspects of Petra is that you will be plagued by locals with horses offering you a lift (via horseback) down to the city. My advise is don't as you will miss some interesting sights on the way down and you don't want any accidents.
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The Tomb of the Obelisks has a Graeco-Nabatean inscription from the period of the reign of Malik ll (40-70 AD) Which reads "This monument was erected by Abd Manku for himself, his descendants and their two descendants".
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After walking down the Siq you will be presented with the photo to the left which gives a glimpse of the Treasury. On exiting the Siq the Treasury will be directly in front of you as pictured to the right. The Treasury is Know as The Al-Khasneh Farun, the treasurey of the Pharaoh, as tradition states a pharaoh hid treasure in the upper section. The monument from it's base to the urn is 40 metres high and 28 metres wide. The Treasurey is carved on two distinct levels, in the lover part a double row of columns outlines a portico which is entirely carved from solid rock. The central room is reached through a doorway. On the outer wall of the lower level there are high relief carvings in the spaces between the two outer columns on each side of the facade. The carvings show a man beside a horse and are presumed to represent spirits who accompany the souls of the dead. The upper section is divided into two sections with a central tholos, a type of cylindrical temple with columns which support a conical peristyle (roof). The famous urn rests on this roof. In the centre of the tholos there is a goddess holding a cornuopia in her left arm. Between the columns to the side of the tholos there are some female figures, possibly amazons, who each hold an axe over their heads. The niches behind the tholos contain figured of victory.
The room inside the Treasury contains no further carvings or items it is perfectly carved flat and square and is devoid of details. While visiting the site in July 03 further discoveries had been found directly beneath the treasuery which can be seen in the picture to the right. 3 Excavations where being carried out on what was thought to be the tombs of three royal princes.
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Doorway to a
Rock Toomb
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Above Treasurey doorway
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Treasurey Doorway
one each to left and right
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Treasurey Columns
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The Theatre
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Facade of rock toombs including The Urn Tomb
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Travel Tips
Essentials - cover up all exposed skin - take high factor sun block for face, neck, hands etc. Take a hat, 2 x bottles of water, fruit, good walking shoes. You should be physically fit and well to take the tour as it's hard work in the heat. If you are dehydrated Spite soft drink works fast and you can buy it in cans while in Petra.
Local people and Bedouins still live in the caves and tombs and will plague you to buy their tat.
Ensure you have the correct visa's and currency to pay for border taxes.
Stay with the Guide and don't wander off. (Unless your based in Petra)
Be patient at border controls
At border control in Israel you can ask an official not to stamp your passport. (Only if this will cause you difficulty in another country)
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