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Bilbrook Light Railway-Buildings and train control
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Loco shed-I had a small galvanised and painted metal shed which I used to store my 16mm rolling stock. The shed and its location were ideal for the 5" but did not look the part so I added an extension. This was made from the salvaged roof timber from an
old shed and was built to be roughly in scale with the 5" loco(s). Construction was simple consisting of 2"x1" framing and tongue and grooved cladding. Have some dressings handy for when you cut the hole in this type of shed. I used tin snips as the walls are quite thin, however the cut edges are wickedly sharp. I "trapped" the cut edges between pieces of 2"x1" which then formed the rear frame of the extension. The roof is covered with felt edged with timber and the door is fixed using the salvaged hinges from the old shed. Window frame sealant waterproofs the joint between the metal shed and the roofing felt. The result is that the extension gives the appearance of a scale building but the metal shed acts as a practical engine shed for 12" to the foot humans. The shed has mains electricity installed because it also houses the transformers for the garden lights and is the power supply for the pond pump-(Seek advice from an electrician on installing mains power in the garden) This is convenient for recharging the Ruston
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The extension is 100cm high (to roof apex) and 85cm deep, the door aperture is 76 wide and cmx 55cm high.
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The first permanent sign on the railway. One here at the begining if the 1:50 (location 1 ) and one before the line crosses the patio (location 6). The signs are made from off cuts of scrap wood, a flat piece of 6" x 8"x1" edged with some 1"x 1/2" strip wood. Add a house number and the small self adhesive metal coated letters that are designed to stick onto metal house name-plates, then apply several coats of old thick black paint to help waterproof the sign. The letters are picked out in white paint then the whole thing is painted with a coat of clear varnish to seal the finished sign.
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This photo shows the ground signals that I have used to replace my home made signals. I bought three of these and two route indicators. They are over size and heavy but required very little work to convert. They come with 35watt 110 volt bulbs, which I replaced with 5 watt 12 volt bulbs (car bulbs). Obviously the car bulbs would not fit the existing fittings, however the fittings had terminals that could be used to attach the smaller bulbs, by 3-4 inches of a suitably stiff wire, soldered to the bulb contacts. The small bulbs are easily supported by the wire allowing for adjustment of the position of the bulb to give the best light through the lens.
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