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BEAMSHOTS GREEN LASER

Lets start with what choices we have for range finding. As I see it, we have three choices  that work best , first is a true range finder, the problem with this is it's like a pair of binoculars, something else to carry and bang about, and then the movement, i.e. what do you do with your gun when you are rangefinding,  then the remount .

Second, is a parralax adjustment. To work at 55 yards and be within 2.5 yards of the range you need a high mag scope which is no good in a wood or at dawn or dusk and don't even think about lamping. 

Lets explain, the larger the angle the better, i.e. the more distance between the laser and the centre of the scope the greater distance the setup will  work at, and the more accurate it will be. So don't put the laser on the scope unless you have no choice. You will have to experiment with your combo as I did, and don't be put off by those who say the laser has to be mounted to the scope to stay on zero as its not true.

As I think I have found the best setup for my Rapid, with the laser under the evo silencer, I have tried it on anther gun with a Logun screw on silencer, and the laser was all over the place, so I mounted it to the air cylinder on the bottom part of the gun which worked well on that gun so try and see. Don't put it on the scope as most people do,  as a laser sat at over 3" higher than the scope is not that practical as you will always be hitting it on something and it won't fit your gunbag, and that height will make it extremely sensitive to the knocks it will get.

Right,  that's mouthing out of the way. Let's talk scopes. First, mill dot zooms are not the best for this, as the mill dots don't move with the zoom, which means you will have to do all the range finding at a predetermined zoom, if you forget it it will make your range wrong.

I would highly recommend a Smart  Diamond site from Simmons. I use a 3.8 x 12 x 44, it's is a cheap site for what it does, i.e. the diamond gets larger the more mag you use on the scope, so it matches the target, the diamond stays the same size compared to the target so when you magnify the target you  magnify  the diamond the same amount.

I would also recommend a mill dot but not a zoom,  try a Hawke Reflex 6x42  or something similar. But there is not much choice as you will see when you don't what parralax adjustment .

Right that's scopes done, lets talk about setting the sites. You set the scope as you normally would then you set the laser so it hits your last aiming point at the top of the scope at your maximum range or I find 60 yards to be about right. As once you go past 60, the difference through the scope is so small you can't range find as accurately as the 5 yard intervals you need to at these ranges.

That done, it's down the range for some comparisons to get used to where the laser is at what range, and where to aim, allowing for pellet drop on the scope, i.e. how much hold over or under at all ranges, it takes quite a while for it to all come together but it is worth it.

     This shows where the laser is on the scope at ranges

        

  £ 500 might seem a lot of money, but you could buy it on line from the u.s.a. and save about £100 on the rrp, but don't forget you will need to pay v.a.t. on the price you see. The way I see it is, I have friends who, as soon as they get some spare money buy a new gun in the chance it helps them get a rabbit or 2 more, and the scope to go with it which costs more, and is not that beneficial.

It's the second best money I've spent, as it gets more results than all the guns my friends have bought put together, as the wrong range is the most common reason for missing the target. Three days ago was a good example. It was a steep downhill  shot, there were 2 rabbits which I thought where about 50 yards away, so I brought the gun up to aim and checked the range with the laser, and it was over 90 yards, one miss saved, I went down and crawled in the wet grass and stopped at 60 yards, two clinical head shots later, that's one miss that wasn't, and 2 dead  rabbits, all down to the laser which I know I wouldn't have had without it.

Do I think the green laser is worth it?, yes yes yes. Put it this way, if I lost it, I would buy another tomorrow if not today. Do I think a red laser is worth it?, no, as the ones I've seen are no good in the day light at the ranges I shoot at, although in a dark wood at dusk or dawn they do work, but in woods your range is usually limited by trees etc.

As far as faults go it has one, and that is, to work in the day light it has to be bright to be seen at range, but at dusk, it's too bright. So I spent hours making a red lens to make it duller for dusk, which works really well. You just put it on the laser when you want to dull it down and it does not affect the sighting at all, the only thing is not to loose it .

How accurate is it?, does it work?, well, put it this way, I can at the push of a button and a quick glance tell the following ranges 15,20,25,30,35,40,45,50,55 ish,60,and 60+ it gives me a true 60 yard killing range, which with my gun equals about 20 mm groups. But the best advantage over other types of range finding systems, is that to range find with a laser you have to mount the gun which means you are ready to fire it straight away. That way you don't have any extra movement so you want scare your prey.

And you can shoot from the hip which I have done at close ranges up to about 30 yards but it's range finding is what I use it for, and you can tell at a glance if your sites have moved without having to fire a shot. All you have to do after you have set up the laser and scope, is to pick two points, one you stand at, the other you look though the scope at, and take notice where the dot is on your crosshairs, then check it's in the same place each time you go out with your gun. 

If you have a good gun, and you take your hunting seriously, and, you can afford it, you should have a green laser.

 

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