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BEAMSHOTS GREEN LASER
Lets start with
what choices we have for range finding. As I see it, we have three choices
that work best , first is a true range finder, the problem with this is it's
like a pair of binoculars, something else to carry and bang about, and then the
movement, i.e. what do you do with your gun when you are rangefinding, then the
remount .
Second, is a parralax adjustment. To work at 55 yards and be within 2.5
yards of the range you need a high mag scope which is no good in a wood or
at dawn or dusk and don't even think about lamping.
Lets explain, the larger the angle the better, i.e. the more distance
between the laser and the centre of the scope the greater distance the setup
will work at, and the more accurate it will be. So don't put the laser
on the scope unless you have no choice. You will have to experiment with
your combo as I did, and don't be put off by those who say the laser has to
be mounted to the scope to stay on zero as its not true. As I think I have found the
best setup for my Rapid, with the laser under the evo silencer, I have tried
it on anther gun with a Logun screw on silencer, and the laser was all over the place,
so I mounted it to the air cylinder on the bottom part of the gun which worked
well
on that gun so try and see. Don't put it on the scope as most people do, as
a laser sat at over 3" higher than the scope is not that practical as you will
always be hitting it on something and it won't fit your gunbag, and that height
will make it extremely sensitive to the knocks it will get.
Right, that's
mouthing out of the way. Let's talk scopes. First, mill dot zooms are not the best for
this, as the mill dots don't move with the zoom, which means you will have to do
all the range finding at a predetermined zoom, if you forget it it will make your range
wrong. I would highly recommend a Smart Diamond site from Simmons. I use
a 3.8 x 12 x 44, it's is a cheap site for what it does, i.e. the diamond gets
larger the more mag you use on the scope, so it matches the target, the diamond
stays the same size compared to the target so when you magnify the target you
magnify the diamond the same amount. I would also recommend a mill dot
but not a zoom, try a Hawke Reflex 6x42 or something similar.
But there is not much choice as you will see when you don't what parralax
adjustment . Right that's scopes done, lets talk about setting the sites. You
set the scope as you normally would then you set the laser so it hits your last
aiming point at the top of the scope at your maximum range or I find 60 yards to
be about right. As once you go past 60, the difference through the scope is so
small you can't range find as accurately as the 5 yard intervals you need to at these
ranges. That done, it's down the range for some comparisons to get used to
where the laser is at what range, and where to aim, allowing for pellet drop on the scope, i.e. how much
hold over or under at all ranges, it takes quite a while for it to all come
together but it is
worth it.
This shows where the laser is on the scope at ranges
£ 500
might seem a lot of money, but you could buy it on line from the u.s.a. and
save about £100 on the rrp, but don't forget you will need to pay v.a.t. on the
price you see. The way I see it is, I have friends who, as soon as they get some
spare money buy a new gun in the chance it helps them get
a rabbit or 2 more, and the scope to go with it which costs more, and is not
that beneficial. It's the second best money I've spent, as it gets more results
than all the guns my friends have bought put together, as the wrong range is the
most common reason for missing the target. Three days ago was a good example. It was a steep downhill
shot, there were 2 rabbits which I thought where about 50 yards away, so I brought
the gun up to aim and checked the range with the laser, and it was over 90 yards,
one miss saved, I went down and crawled in the wet grass and stopped at 60 yards,
two clinical head
shots
later, that's one miss that wasn't, and 2 dead rabbits, all down to the laser
which I know I wouldn't have had without it. Do I think the green laser is
worth it?, yes yes yes. Put it this way, if I lost it, I would buy another tomorrow
if not today. Do I think a red laser is worth it?, no, as the ones I've seen are no
good in the day light at the ranges I shoot at, although in a dark wood at dusk
or dawn they do work, but in woods your range is usually limited by trees etc. As far as faults go it has
one, and that is, to work in the day
light it
has to be bright to be seen at range, but at dusk, it's too bright. So I spent hours
making a red lens to make it duller for dusk, which works really well. You just
put it on the laser when you want to dull it down and it does not affect the
sighting at all, the only thing is not to loose it . How accurate is it?, does it work?, well,
put it this way, I can at the push of a button and a quick glance tell the following ranges
15,20,25,30,35,40,45,50,55 ish,60,and 60+ it gives me a true 60 yard killing
range, which with my gun equals about 20 mm groups. But the best advantage over other
types of range finding systems, is that to range find with a laser you have to
mount the gun which means you are ready to fire it straight away. That way you
don't have any extra movement so
you want scare your prey. And you can shoot from the hip
which I have done at close ranges up to about 30 yards but it's range finding is
what I use it for, and you can tell at a glance if your sites have moved without
having to fire a shot. All you have to do after you have set up the laser and scope,
is to pick two points, one you stand at, the other you look though the scope at,
and take notice where the dot is on your crosshairs, then check it's in the same
place each time you go out with your gun.
If you have a good gun, and you take your hunting seriously, and, you
can afford it, you should have a green laser. | |||||||||||