River Estuaries

An untapped resource for clean, healthy and seriously good fun!

The Mersey Estuary at Wigg Island, Runcorn

Welcome to my world.  The world of the river estuary.  Warm sun, mild breezes, cool water, soft mud and both physical and psychological well-being.  And venues for the sports of mud-running and wadlopen (mud-walking).

River estuaries aren't the dangerous places that some would have us
believe. Sure there are deep mud, quicksand and racing tidal currents, but personally I consider the estuary environment to be far safer than dangerously polluted, lethally traffic-clogged streets. Ever crossed a road? Did you do a risk assessment first?

Let's take a realistic look at the potential hazards together with how to deal with them.

GO PREPARED!

From L to R: Garmin E-trex GPS, Cobra sub-min marine VHF, mobile phone in water-resistant neoprene case, Casio Sea Pathfinder tide watch.  I'm wearing AquaSphere "Eagle" goggles with smoked lenses fitted. 

1. Wear a waterproof watch, preferably a tide watch programmed with tidal data for your location. It's no good knowing the tide times if you don't know the time.  Make sure you DO know the tides: buy a copy of the local tide table and have it open at the relevant page inside a waterproof poly bag.
   
2. Buy a good quality water-resistant handheld GPS: mine is the basic Garmin e-Trex. Don't fork out for one that displays a map.  Useless in the middle of a tidal estuary. You know where you are but in an emergency the Coastguard will need to know your map co-ordinates to organise your rescue - not how far you are from the nearest Tescos!
   
3. Carry a mobile 'phone in a waterproof case. In case of emergency dial 999 and ask for the Coastguard. When requested give your situation and map co-ordinates and follow instructions to the letter. Always make sure your mobile's battery is fully charged and leave it switched off unless needed.  Don't waste valuable battery power on trivial chat or texting.
   
4. It's never a good idea to rely on mobile phone coverage particularly in remote locations, so if you are going to make a habit of estuary walking consider buying a handheld marine VHF radio. You do not need a licence to own or listen in on one but you do to transmit. However I'd rather argue the toss with the authorities than the Grim Reaper!  In case of emergency ensure your radio is switched to Channel 16 then using full power call "Mayday, Mayday, Mayday".  Again, upon answer explain your situation clearly and precisely, give your position then follow subsequent instructions without question - the Coastguard know their job!  Try low transmitter power after making contact as if this is satisfactory you will prolong your battery life.  NEVER EVER MAKE ANY HOAX CALLS. Doing so endangers lives: penalties are quite rightly very severe. And hoaxers WILL be caught!
   
5. I have personally never encountered any, but quicksand can form in any estuary.  If in doubt carry a long garden cane with which to probe suspect areas.  Very cheap, light to carry and if you lose it, fully biodegradable.  Also handy for testing the depth of mud before you put your foot in it.  If you do get caught in quicksand, use the technique for extricating yourself from deep mud, as described in the next section.
   
6. Never go out in conditions of poor visibility: you will become very disorientated even on familiar ground.  Although mist and fog are fairly rare during the summer months they can form.  If you are caught out by unexpected sea mist, you can use the compass function on your GPS to point yourself in the right direction.  No compass? If the sun is right behind you at 1:00pm BST (in the UK) then you are facing due North.  If you've been walking through mud or soft sand you can always follow your footprints back to shore.  GPS receivers intended for walking, such as my e-Trex, actually record your journey so you can use this to retrace your steps.  If you are planning your journey to cover a specific route then consider entering waypoints into your GPS.
   
7. Don't go out too far from the shore.  Remember, you've got to make the return journey - maybe in a hurry.  And you'll be tired when coming back.
8. Make sure you have a clear escape route.  Don't get trapped against cliffs by an incoming tide.
   
9. Some estuaries are just too dangerous to walk in, as highlighted by the tragic events involving cocklers in Morecambe Bay.  Never try to walk across Morecambe Bay on your own - always go in an organised party with a qualified guide.  If you do this you'll also help keep a local tradition going as the guide service is under threat from under-use. Contact the "Queen's Guide", Cedric Robinson, on 01539 532 165
   
10. Watch out for the sun. If you are follicularly challenged, or like me have a shaved head, wear a swim cap or a beanie. The glare can be intense in a marine environment so a pair of UV400-certified sunglasses or goggles will prevent headaches as well as reduce the possibility of long-term eye damage.  The safety nannies will no doubt shriek hysterically about the risk of contracting skin cancer from daring to expose your bare skin to the sun, but for some facts rather than "Health and Safety" fiction, look here.
11. Never assume "it won't happen to me".  Anyone can twist an ankle or suddenly fall ill.  Always tell someone where you are going, and what time you expect to return.  And never forget: testosterone-fuelled bravado can  lead to tragedy. 

Above all:  YOU MUST BE A STRONG, CONFIDENT SWIMMER. 

If something doesn't seem right - DON'T GO!!

Tides.

According to the Health and Safety freaks, anyone venturing out onto the sands runs the risk of becoming trapped by the incoming tide and/or swept away by strong currents. Tides may be unpredictable on Planet RoSPA but here on Earth they are well known: to the minute for literally years ahead. So all you need to do is to check the tide times. These are often posted at seaside resorts and in the local press in maritime localities such as my own. Books of tide tables can be bought in any yacht chandlers, angling shops catering for sea anglers, or direct from the publishers. They can be looked up online on the National Tidal & Sea Level Facility website.  Last but not least you can buy "tide watches" like  my Casio Sea Pathfinder which display graphically the state of the tide at any instant.

Tidal flows depend on a particular estuary's topography, but for a couple of hours either side of high and low tides you have "slack water" when there is little or no flow, if you want to swim this is generally the time to do it.  If you aren't familiar with the area, seek advice from a knowledgeable local as to the actual duration of slack water.  If things do go pear-shaped make sure it's on an incoming tide so you'll only be carried inland.  It's usually safe to assume that currents will be at their strongest roughly half way between high and low tides.

Bear in mind that tidal range is not constant but varies continually. High (or Spring) tides occur twice a month, three days after new and full moon. During a Spring tide, water levels are higher at high tide and conversely low tide levels are, well, lower. As would be expected, tidal flow is greatest during spring tides. Neap tides have a much smaller variation, with a correspondingly small tidal flow. Unsurprisingly, Neap tides occur exactly between Springs, three days after half-moon.

For those unfamiliar with estuaries, the best time to go out is during Neaps.  At low tide the water will not only remain visible, you'll probably be splashing through it. This will remind you not to be complacent. Should the worst happen the currents will be at their weakest, and the water level at high tide will be at its lowest. Choose a day when the estuary has just drained during the morning and you should have a few hours to walk and swim in any pools left behind.  However ALWAYS check the tide times beforehand, and keep your eyes and ears open.

Bear in mind that bad weather even a couple of hundred miles out to sea can raise water levels by a few feet, and in extreme conditions result in a storm surge. Potentially very dangerous when it augments an incoming spring tide. Always check the weather forecast before your day out, and if there is any low pressure in the vicinity I'd strongly advise you to listen to the Shipping Forecasts on BBC Radio 4.  Get to know your Sea Area (mine's Irish Sea) and take note of any gale warnings.  Needless to say, it's an onshore gale that presents the greatest risk of a storm surge.

Rip Tides

I always aim to out of an estuary before the tide arrives so have never experienced a rip tide.  However these can be extremely dangerous.  Some advice from Dan Earthquake, stuntman, qualified open-water lifeguard and swimmer of the Severn estuary:

"Rip tides occur when a bank of sand that was built up by wave action gives way. The water then forces through the bottlenecked opening at a greater speed, thus producing a current that is massively powerful and very localised. Of course, this could also occur around rocks or bridges where flow of a river is obstructed. When I swam across the Severn the eddies around the main concrete supports were very powerful. Unless you are a regular observer of the wave action and landscape of a particular beach and know where they occur, then it's a danger that is real, unexpected and one that can catch many out. The general advice that I have heard (including a first hand account of being swept out to sea by Fred Blades) is to keep calm and save your energy. Don't fight a current that is stronger than you are because you will lose. Instead, save your energy and use it to return to shore when the current dumps you where it wants to go. Then use your energy to swim back. This is not easy advice to follow, but the alternative may be fatal, so it's worth considering. My friend Fred had a long swim and an even longer walk to return to his starting point - but he lived to tell the tale."

Remember, once you enter the water you become your own vessel. Your life is in your hands: a knowledge of basic seamanship is essential to your survival as well as enhancing your enjoyment. We don't want to lose you!!

The Dee Estuary at Thurstaston, Wirral

Mud

"Mud's dirty and disgusting" - those sad people who have an unnatural fear of  the natural world may think so, but after all it's only a mixture of earth and water.  Many pay over £100 a throw to be smeared all over with marine mud in a health spa, so why not get the same benefits for free?  Marine mud is a gentle but very effective exfoliant, and many experts hold that it also has a poultice action, drawing impurities from the skin.  And of course it's also packed with minerals from its seawater content.  From an exercise point of view mud-walking is a strenuous activity that burns calories like there's no tomorrow. The media constantly refer to estuary mud as "deep, treacherous and dangerous" so let's sweep aside the "Health and Safety" hysteria and look at the facts.

Being a mixture of seawater and sediment, marine mud is considerably denser than the human body.  In other words, it's buoyant stuff and you'll tend to float in it.  Nor does mud "suck you down" .  When you immerse a foot in mud then try to withdraw it, unless the mud is fluid enough to fill the resulting void you produce a vacuum.  So there's around fourteen pounds of atmospheric pressure pushing down on every square inch of your foot!  When your foot comes free, it's not so much the mud releasing its grip, rather that loud "slurrrp" is air rushing in to fill the vacuum.  Liquid mud doesn't "suck" as it can flow around your foot, preventing any void from forming. 

"Deep and treacherous" - depends how you're dressed.  In all cases I've come across where someone has had a narrow escape in the mud, they've been fully dressed.  I've never tried it, but have been assured on good authority that swimming fully clothed is very difficult.  Now as marine mud is basically  "thickened water" the same caveat will apply.  People who venture out in deep mud fully clothed are seriously tempting fate.  Should their clothing become waterlogged they will lose all buoyancy with predictable consequences. Furthermore, these incidents tend to occur in winter when hypothermia becomes a significant factor.  Estuary walking and mud wading are summertime pastimes when both water and mud are warm.  And on a hot summer's day the mud can become very warm indeed: 30C (86F) or even higher.  

The most appropriate clothing for mud-walking is a pair of swimming trunks. Nothing else. That way, if you sink in the mud you'll have all your inherent buoyancy, full freedom of movement and have just your bare skin to rinse clean afterwards. Over the years I've waded through soft, very deep mud and have never sunk deeper than my waist.  I'm no featherweight either: I'm a fairly hefty 16 stone (about 100kg) although to be fair I am very buoyant in water and my size 11s do spread my weight a bit.  If you do become stuck, it's very easy to extricate yourself.  Lie down on your back and let yourself float in the mud.  There's no need to struggle to pull up your legs - they'll come up of their own accord.  Just lie back and relax, you aren't in any danger.  Bear in mind that mud is a viscous liquid and things happen s-l-o-w-l-y.  As soon as you are floating free, simply roll over onto your stomach and "swim" your way out.  You will of course be covered head to toe in the stuff, but as you are appropriately (un)dressed  it'll readily rinse off.  And you'll have had a £100+ marine mud spa treatment (including face pack) for free!  As soon as the weather warms up I'll be posting pics of myself demonstrating the above procedure.

So what if for any reason you become stuck in deep mud with the tide racing in? Most important: DON'T PANIC. As soon as you become surrounded by a few inches of water, simply rock from side to side. The mud surrounding you will liquefy, and as soon as the water is deep enough you'll float up and be able to swim to safety. Whilst no-one should be out in an estuary with high tide approaching, it's always possible to get into trouble through unforeseen circumstances. 

A few safety tips:

1. If you want to go mud-walking, check the tides and ensure you are carrying the kit described earlier.  If in an unfamiliar area seek local advice.
2. Whilst bare feet are best, unless you know the area to be safe, wear something like waterproof river sandals to protect your feet from any submerged rubbish.  Sandals allow the mud to flow around your feet reducing the tendency for them to be pulled off.  Safe areas are generally those with no access for fly-tippers' cars.
3. Consider packing a small inner tube (ie scooter size) in your rucksack.  Should you get into difficulties just inflate it and use as an impromptu lifebelt to give you a chance to extricate yourself or summon help.
4. It's always best to go with at least one companion.  Young children must always be accompanied by at least one responsible adult.
5. Just as with swimming, never go mud-walking after drinking.  Save the celebrations for the end of the day.
6. Mud-walking is very strenuous.  Should you suffer from a heart condition or any other medical problem, check with your GP.  Should you become fatigued or feel unwell then stop, take five and TURN BACK.  Take plenty of fluid with you to avoid becoming dehydrated.  A couple of litres of fruit juice or cordial laced with two or three tablespoons of glucose powder and a pinch of salt should keep you going.  A bar of Kendal mintcake is also a good standby.  On a hot day that other source of quick energy, chocolate, would soon turn into something much like that you are walking in!
7. Wear a light-coloured or silver swim cap to keep your hair clean and protect your head from the sun. Likewise, protect your eyes with a pair of Aquasphere UV-400 certified swim goggles or photochromic swim mask.
8. If you cut yourself, simply wash the wound in seawater.  It's arguably the best antiseptic going.  I've frequently grazed my feet and legs on barnacle-encrusted rocks: not only has the wound stopped bleeding within minutes, it's fully healed within 24 hours.  What about the safety nannies' tactical nuclear deterrent: Weil's Disease (leptospirosis)?  Forget it.  The organism responsible can't survive in a salt-water environment.

Isn't mucking about in the mud childish and immature? Again, some may think so but it's a proven fact that those who let their hair down (if they've got any!) and act their shoe size rather than their actual age, live a lot longer.  Mud-racing is a popular sport in many, more enlightened countries, and mud walking (Wadlopen) is a national pastime in that most laid-back of countries: The Netherlands.  Try some of these links:

A basic English langauge synopsis of wadlopen.

Wadloopcentrum Fryslân Dutch language wadlopen site with pics.

The annual Transbaie mud-race across the Somme Estuary in France (French language site).

The annual "Mad" Maldon Mud Race across the River  Blackwater.

I'll be adding to this list as I find more.

Know of more mud-race or mud-walking sites? Want to publicise your own event here, or would like me to help organise one?  Please email me.

 

 Riot Act!

Bear in mind the above advice is based on my own 40 years' experience in estuary mud only. I've never experienced clay mud, quicksand or freshwater bog, but the self-rescue technique described above should work. All advice is given in good faith for free, but I'm not accepting any liability for the consequences of your acting on it.  You are responsible for your own safety - take care, and help show up the safety zealots for what they are: pathetic, immature wimps trying to restrict activities they have no knowledge of nor appreciation for, and who lack the courage to participate themselves.

 

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